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Wednesday, May 15, 2024

A menswear procuring information – 2024 replace – Everlasting Type


 

Rather a lot has modified within the 5 years since we final up to date this Paris procuring information (and sure, I do know simply as a lot as modified elsewhere – we will even replace the others!). 

Kenjiro Suzuki has left, the Viaduc des Arts has drifted, and the experiment that was the sixteenth Arrondissement menswear has ended. Vacation has closed, Beige has moved and Le Vif is within the means of looking for a brand new house. It was nice whereas it lasted, however Beige specifically seems very at residence in its quiet Left Financial institution location. 

It’s not all unhealthy both – Husbands has expanded, opening its second store in St Germain not too removed from Beige, and Tremendous Sew, which we initially met within the basement of Vacation, now has its personal correct store. 

It’s good, as a result of prior to now 30 years Paris has usually appeared to undergo greater than different worldwide cities, with just a few massive retailers like Previous England and Arnys closing whilst London managed to carry onto most of its conventional outfitters on the again of tourism. 

Paris has some actual gems, some previous and a few new. Beneath are 31 we suggest, along with specific explanations why. They’re roughly organized into related teams, although outright categorisation proved past us.

As ever, be happy so as to add your individual solutions within the feedback beneath. There are at all times extra on the market. 

 


1 Beige Habilleur
www.beige-habilleur.com, 86 Rue Bonaparte

Beige Habilleur is without doubt one of the greatest multibrand shops anyplace. The best way I decide that’s {that a} multibrand retailer ought to have a transparent id – a transparent view on the world – even because it shares garments made by others. The purchase, the collaborations, the styling ought to all communicate to that id and make you need to go to to expertise it, somewhat than simply as a result of it’s your native stockist of a specific model. 

Beige additionally has the sensation of somewhat neighbourhood store – maybe like some in Marylebone in London. The manufacturers carried embrace Justo Gimeno teba jackets, Smedley polos, Jamieson’s knits and Quoddy or Paraboot sneakers. All of them add as much as a relaxed however elegant view on fashionable city clothes. 

2 Anatomica
anatomica.fr, 14 Rue du Bourg Tibourg

I discussed Anatomica in the Tokyo procuring information just lately, and the French department has an analogous aesthetic, mixing its personal workwear-inspired designs with exterior manufacturers. 

There may be extra emphasis right here on the sneakers although, and Alden fashions on their ‘modified’ final. This large final has turn out to be related to Anatomica through the years, and is particularly designed for essentially the most snug match. Warning: your present shoe dimension will probably be no type of information right here.

Match is a normal obsession of director Pierre Fournier and designer Kinji Teramoto, and the clothes has an analogous ideally suited of ‘correct’ match that permits motion, whether or not it’s a close-fitting waistcoat or a unfastened coat.

Learn the devoted article on Anatomica right here.

3 Husbands
www.husbands-paris.com, 57 Rue de Richelieu and 1 Rue de l’Abbaye

Husbands has a glance. That’s fairly apparent once you meet Nicolas Gabard, the proprietor. Nicolas’s mission is to make tailoring attractive. To indicate how a love of fits doesn’t must preclude cowboy shirts or black boots. To show the drama of an old school Aquascutum raincoat, tightly belted, collar up. 

And but there are parts of the model that everybody will discover interesting – whether or not it’s the cavalry-twill used for the navy blazers, which is achingly sharp; the proportions of a camel wrap coat; or fisherman’s sweaters with buttons on the shoulder seam which might be really designed for use. An antidote to anybody tired of standard tailoring.

Learn the devoted article on Husbands right here.

4 Jean-Manuel Moreau
@jeanmanuelmoreau, 3 Rue Chambiges

Jean-Manuel Moreau affords made-to-measure shirts and Neapolitan tailoring, plus a scattering of equipment and sneakers. The tailoring is made by Orazio Luciano, however to Jean-Manuel’s block – which has a barely wider, rounder lapel, extra open foreparts and decrease buttoning level. And the shirts are by Mazzarelli. You possibly can see my overview of the tailoring right here.

Apparently, Moreau is the one store in Paris providing Neapolitan tailoring at this degree, which makes him a vacation spot for businessmen progressively shifting away from the stiff fits into extra informal fits and separates. Importantly, Jean-Manuel additionally makes use of a neighborhood Parisian tailor for alterations and changes – which makes the providing each extra dependable and speedier. 

See the devoted article on Jean-Manuel right here.

 

 

5 Cinabre
www.cinabre-paris.com, 14 Cité Bergère

Cinabre is greatest often known as a maker of ties and handkerchiefs. They’ve their very own atelier in France making them, and provide the French President, Emmanuel Macron. However prior to now yr they’ve expanded into a brand new, greater store and added two lodge suites within the higher flooring. 

The result’s lovely, and extra an idea than a retail store. You enter by means of a tent, the check-in is contained in the boutique. The rooms upstairs are full of lovely materials that menswear followers will respect, typically made in collaboration with French heritage producers. 

The vary of clothes, in the meantime, is increasing into dressing robes, dinner jackets and shirts. Typically fairly idiosyncratic, however at all times beautiful and practically at all times made in France. 

6 Charvet
www.charvet.com, 28 Place Vendôme

Fairly merely some of the lovely menswear retailers on the earth. A stunning floor ground stacked with equipment, and higher flooring of shirtings and bespoke tailoring. There are only a few single-brand, single-location retailers left of this kind on the earth. 

A lot of the model is to not my style, however the shirts are lovely and every part exquisitely made. (There are additionally different shirtmakers for those who’re trying additional afield, notably Lucca and Courtot.)

Learn my expertise of getting a bespoke Charvet shirt made here and an interview with Jean-Claude Colban right here

7 Mes Chaussettes Rouges
www.meschaussettesrouges.com, 9 Rue César Franck

Mes Chaussettes Rouges has expanded significantly in the previous couple of years, going from an internet operation to a correct store, after which making its personal bespoke socks onsite. They’re nonetheless among the finest suppliers of high-quality gown socks in Europe, and for those who like your socks, the store is a superb place to go to. 

See the devoted article on MCR right here.

8 Chato Lufsen

chatolufsen.store, 41 Rue de Verneuil

Christophe of Chato Lufsen is a classic collector of Arnys specifically, but additionally Hermes and different luxurious manufacturers. In recent times nonetheless, he has turn out to be higher recognized for his variations of previous Arnys designs, such because the Bores. These typically reinterpret the previous slouchy mandarin-collar jacket into one thing extra fashionable, whereas nonetheless being tremendous relaxed and comfy. 

Learn the devoted article on Chato Lufsen right here, Tony’s overview of his jacket right here and my overview of mine right here

 

 

9 Jinji
jinji.fr, 22 Rue des Canettes

Jinji is an effective location for workwear followers, with most of the acquainted Japanese names like The Actual McCoy’s, Full Rely and Warehouse stocked right here. However there are additionally some extra fashion-led makers like Kapital, some British requirements like Sunspel, and a scattering of merchandise made beneath the Jinji identify, that are perennially attention-grabbing. 

Basically, Jinji has sufficient of its personal view on issues to be value a go to even for those who’re already acquainted with loads of these Japanese manufacturers. My private favorite is a jacket they made out of an previous Navajo blanket, which I purchased and repaired, and lined right here

10 Tremendous Sew
superstitchmfg.com, 13 Rue Racine

We first noticed Tremendous Sew after they had been within the basement beneath Vacation, largely doing repairs and alterations on denims. They now have their very own retailer in St Germain, providing their very own line of denims, denim shirts and denim jackets – in addition to the repairs and alterations. The make is totally excellent, the work of a denim obsessive. 

11 Brut (and Le Vif)
brut-clothing.com, 3 Rue Réaumur
@le.vif.boutique

Le Vif was certainly one of my favorite classic shops on the earth, so hopefully it should discover a everlasting retailer location quickly, having closed the house within the sixteenth arrondissement. 

Paris usually is nice on classic and second-hand clothes, actually in comparison with London, and the flea markets are at all times value diving into. A great store was Brut Clothes, although they’ve advanced prior to now few years and do various their very own clothes now, typically utilizing deadstock clothes or materials. Value a search for each.

See the devoted article on Brut right here

12 Harpo
www.harpo-paris.com, 19 Rue de Turbigo

Harpo isn’t that well-known within the menswear house, however it ticks most of the packing containers for a Everlasting Type reader: craft, authenticity, a basic model, and household owned. 

It sells jewelry and different crafts made by Native Individuals such because the Navajo, Hopi and Zuni. It’s been there since 1971, based by Gerard ‘Harpo’ Nadaud, and run as we speak by him and his three daughters: Dorothée, Valentine and Ella. If this type of jewelry is your model, you gained’t discover anyplace higher exterior the US.

See devoted article on Harpo right here

 

 

13 Maison Bonnet and Ingenieur Chevallier
www.maisonbonnet.com, 5 Rue des Petits Champs
ingenieurchevallier.com, 17 Rue des Pyramides and 16 Rue du Vertbois

Bonnet is without doubt one of the best makers of eyewear on the earth, solely doing bespoke and on the highest degree. They’re notably recognized for his or her inventory of tortoiseshell, however the worth actually is within the tight, enthusiastic group and the talent of design and becoming. Stunning frames, beautiful individuals. 

Bonnet additionally just lately purchased an previous, storied Parisian maker referred to as Ingenieur Chevallier and turned it into an idea between ready-made and bespoke glasses. There are designs by the Bonnet group but additionally from different manufacturers, and so they can all be ordered in several sizes, earlier than being comprehensively tailored to the face – with recordsdata, pliers, no matter is required. An actual step above most fashionable ready-made eyewear.

14 Hosoi
www.hosoiparis.com, 37 bis, Rue de Montreuil

Satoru Hosoi is an Hermes-trained leather-based craftsman working within the Cour de l’industrie: a set of courtyards within the Faubourg Saint Antoine district that homes round 50 completely different artisans. His work is totally beautiful, with no nook lower together with (very unusually) making all his personal {hardware}. 

As detailed within the devoted article we did on Hosoi right here, his designs are the issues that may appeal to individuals specifically, and are value a go to to see alone. He additionally does trunk reveals in his native Japan.

15 Cifonelli and Camps de Luca
www.cifonelli.com, 31 Rue Marbeuf
campsdeluca.com, 16 Rue de la Paix

Paris has a small however excellent bespoke tailoring scene. The perfect-known homes are Cifonelli (now clearly the largest), Camps de Luca (which just lately moved) and Smalto (additionally has a somewhat gaudy RTW line). I like to recommend the primary two most extremely. 

Cifonelli additionally just lately moved into a big house for its ready-to-wear clothes. The model is somewhat luxe for me, however the high quality is constantly excessive and price a glance if that’s your model.

 

 

16 Berluti bespoke
www.berluti.com, 9 Rue du Faubourg St Honoré

The Berluti empire is certainly not distinctive to Paris. However it’s the place the bespoke tailoring and shoemaking are positioned, with the previous a takeover of the previous Arnys workshop, and the shoemaking expanded with just a few finely chosen names. If both appeals, then, Paris is the place to go for consultations and fittings. (And attempt to overlook the unhappy demise of Arnys itself, which could nicely have been prime of this record had it nonetheless existed.)

17 Corthay, Aubercy, John Lobb
www.corthay.com, 1 Rue Volney
www.dimitribottier.com, 14 Rue Chauveau-Lagarde
www.aubercy.com, 34 Rue Vivienne
www.johnlobb.com, 21 Rue Boissy d’Anglas

Paris has a robust contingent of shoemakers, though largely a part of greater homes. There may be Berluti, there’s John Lobb Paris (a part of Hermes) and there’s Massaro (a part of Chanel). The 2 most extremely really useful nonetheless are Corthay, which has a big RTW line however nonetheless does bespoke, and Aubercy, which has a smaller one. 

18 Philippe Atienza, Serge Amoruso and Samuel Gassman
www.philippeatienzabottier.com, 53 Avenue Daumesnil
@serge_amoruso, 37 Avenue Daumesnil
samuelgassmann.com, 1 rue Charlemagne

There was once a beautiful little grouping of those makers on Avenue Daumesnil, in what was referred to as the Viaduc des Arts. Most are nonetheless there, however Samuel Gassman has moved and is planning to maneuver once more in October 2024. Philippe has moved his workshop to Provence however nonetheless does appointments in the identical location. And Michel Heurtault has additionally moved to the countryside however does appointments are Maison Fayet (see beneath).

Philippe Atienza is a bespoke shoemaker who additionally has a ready-made line made to the identical high quality degree as bespoke. The store is value a go to for his assortment of classic shoemaking equipment alone. 

Somewhat additional down the road is leather-based specialist Serge Amoruso, who makes eclectic designs of wallets, luggage and holders for every part from golf golf equipment to guitars. He’s notably recognized for sturdy colors and unique leathers. 

Lastly, Samuel Gassman who hand makes cufflinks and jewelry. Quirky and unique, Samuel’s work is carried by a number of retailers (like Cinabre) and malls

See devoted articles right here: Atienza, Amoruso


19
 Galerie Fayet
www.galerie-fayet.com, 34 Passage Jouffroy

Michel Heurtault makes maybe the best umbrellas on the earth, largely bespoke and largely girls’s, however with beautiful males’s examples too. He used to have a workshop within the Viaduc des Arts however is now based mostly within the countryside. Thankfully, he now sells by means of Galerie Fayet and makes appointments there. Fayet additionally affords a gorgeous vary of canes and strolling sticks.

See devoted article on Michel Heurtault right here

 

 

20 Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers
lafayette-saltiel.com, 11 Rue d’Uzès

Fabric agent Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers has turn out to be well-known for its inventory of classic fabric (just below 20,000 metres). They’re the agent for many English and Italian mills in France, and have been for a few years. In that point they’ve constructed up this classic assortment – largely as a result of, given their massive workplace, they merely have room to.

Virgil and Pierre are enthusiastic and educated, and I like to recommend stopping by. Though this stays a really small a part of their enterprise, they love speaking about and exhibiting off their classic fabric.

 

21 Chapal and Seraphin
chapal.fr, 244 Rue de Rivoli
www.seraphin-france.com, 57 Quai de Valmy

Paris boasts two of one of the best makers of leather-based jackets on the earth. Chapal is an previous identify that was made well-known for flying jackets (supplying each French and US airforces) and nonetheless has its personal tannery. Ignore the denims, T-shirts and goggles and give attention to the authentically detailed USAAF and A2 fashions. 

Seraphin is a extra common luxurious model, however making all of the leather-based itself in Paris in addition to supplying a number of designers. They’re not likely open to the general public, however typically they may permit guests on request.

See devoted articles right here: Chapal, Seraphin

 

22 Camille Fournet and Lavabre Cadet
www.camillefournet.com, 5 Rue Cambon
lavabrecadet.com, 5 Rue Cambon

Camille Fournet makes nice leather-based watch straps – one thing Paris has a surfeit of, with Jean Rousseau and Atelier du Bracelet Parisien amongst others. Fournet has additionally taken over working the glovemaker Lavabre Cadet, and each at the moment are within the store on Rue Cambon.

See devoted article on Lavabre Cadet right here

23 Hermes
www.hermes.com, 24 Rue du Faubourg St Honoré

Hermes, in fact, is in most giant cities on the earth. However the flagship at 24 Rue du Faubourg St Honoré deserves a pilgrimage – somewhat just like the Rhinelander Mansion in New York, or Armani in Milan. A towering temple to the leather-based and silk professional, and given how small the runs are of some items, there’ll at all times be one thing you haven’t seen elsewhere.

Others:

L’Officine – Multibrand retailer promoting largely Neapolitan RTW. Avino, Sannino, Rifugio, Scafora and so forth

Daniel Levy  – Bespoke shirtmaker. Comes really useful however I haven’t been capable of see and/or attempt

Vieux Campeur / Younger Hiker – The primary is a Parisian establishment for out of doors clothes, with retailers throughout a number of blocks. The second is a classy upstart enjoying off the identify, within the Palais Royale gardens. Each have their very own enchantment

Artumes & Co – Nation-driven model by the ex-Arnys designer Dominique Lelys

Berteil – Maybe greatest considered the French Cordings, fairly an establishment however very conventional and never the very best high quality

Maison Gabriel – Unstructured tailoring, ready-made and made-to-measure, plus sartorial equipment

And flagships….
This information is extra about clothes, however it’s value mentioning that Paris additionally has the flagships of many top-end fragrance and baggage manufacturers, comparable to Caron, Goyard and others. Oh and I at all times go into 45R, however that’s simply because there isn’t a outlet in London.

 



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